It looks like everybody with a foot in vogue has an award nowadays, however the crown jewel is indisputably nonetheless the LVMH Prize, which the conglomerate awards yearly to up and coming designers with a stage of ceremony that’s tantamount to an anointment. The jury has a report of recognizing stars—Grace Wales Bonner, Marine Serre, Hood By Air, and Jacquemus are all previous winners. And it’s not only a trophy: the 300,000 euros for the grand prize winner, plus a yr of mentorship from LVMH, have helped type a brand new technology of icons in an business that may be unsparing to younger expertise.
The winners of this yr’s version have been introduced on Tuesday morning. Twenty-seven-year-old Nensi Dojaka, an Albanian womenswear designer primarily based in London, took house the grand prize. The Karl Lagerfeld Prize, a particular prize renamed for the late Chanel designer in 2019, was shared by three winners: the American designer Colm Dillane, who designs streetwear-ish ladies’s and menswear below the title Kidsuper; Lukhanyo Mdingi, a South African designer of swish males’s and ladies’s garments; and RUI’s Rui Zhou, a Shanghai-based designer of freaky genderless experiments in knitwear. These three designers will obtain 150,000 euro and a yr of mentorship, as properly. All of the winners are below thirty.
The Lagerfeld winners described being considerably starstruck by the LVMH designers who function the prize’s jury: Kim Jones, Marc Jacobs, Virgil Abloh, and Jonathan Anderson. Lagerfeld could also be probably the most legendary names in vogue, however for as we speak’s twenty-something hopefuls, it’s this crop of designers who’re the icons, particularly due to the best way that Jacobs and Abloh mishmashed streetwear, popular culture, and excessive vogue at Louis Vuitton. (Jacobs was the inventive director on the home from 1997 to 2014.) When requested how success would possibly look completely different as we speak than it did for designers of Jacobs’s technology—or Lagerfeld’s, for that matter—the designers pointed resolutely to a shift within the steadiness of energy: away from the institution blessing and in the direction of a fanatical fanbase.
“I feel again within the day, if somebody cosigned you, it made an enormous distinction,” stated Kidsuper’s Dillane. “Now it’s all about constructing your individual group and ensuring a cosign doesn’t even matter. The press was run by individuals who can open and shut doorways. Now the press is Instagram, proper? For those who can construct an actual group your self, that’s extra essential than one article. However again within the day, one article may change your life.”